What Exactly is Genuine Leather and What Animal Hides are Used?
If you’ve ever worn a pair of genuine leather shoes, it’s worth knowing that those leather uppers once adorned the skin of animals. Leather is a natural material derived from animal hides or skins, with bovine (cow or buffalo) being the most common source for safety footwear. India and China are the primary global suppliers of safety footwear leathers, while Brazil also contributes to the market. India, known as the leather capital, has been a major producer since the 19th century, with buffalo hides being more prevalent due to the cow’s sacred status. However, cow leather is available in certain regions.
The Benefits of Using Leather
Leather is favored for its ease of cutting and shaping, strength, lightness, and incredible suppleness. Most importantly, it is a breathable material. Despite advancements in synthetic materials, leather remains highly popular, particularly for its durability and comfort, making it an ideal choice for long hours of wear.
Understanding the Different Grades of Leather
An animal hide is quite thick and can be divided into various layers, commonly referred to as grades. A cross-section of the hide reveals the outer layer that was once covered in hair and the inner flesh layer closest to the organs. Between these layers lie the full grain, top grain, and split, all of which are considered genuine leather.
Insight into Bonded Leather
But what part of the genuine leather are you actually getting? This is crucial information you need to be aware of. After the split, what remains is known as bonded leather. Unfortunately, bonded leather contains very little actual leather, consisting mostly of leather flakes held together with a polyurethane or latex bonding agent, sometimes comprising as little as 10% real leather flakes.
Identifying the Best Type of Leather
The epidermis layer, which was once the outer protective layer of the animal’s skin and hair, is exceptionally strong. This layer is known as the full grain or top grain and is highly desirable. When preparing leather for use, it needs to be thinned, usually to a thickness of around 4mm to 6mm after removal from the animal. This involves a splitting process where the leather is fed between two heavy metal rollers, which are adjustable to achieve the desired thickness. The top layer becomes the full grain, while what lies beneath forms the start of the split. Some hides can undergo further splitting, resulting in thinner leather used to create bonded leather by compressing the remaining fibers and flakes with latex. In essence, bonded leather is the closest one gets to synthetic material while still using the term “leather.”
When to Use Split Leather
Despite being bonded, split leather is still valuable and useful, often corrected to resemble a finished surface similar to top grain quality leather. It is commonly used in Econo type styles or in areas of the shoe or boot that will be under less strain or impact, such as in the form of natural suede for tongues, trims, or panels.
The Thickness of Safety Footwear Leather
Leathers can vary in thickness from 0.8mm upwards. For safety footwear uppers, thicker and more robust leathers ranging from 1.6mm to 2.0mm or even 2.2mm for high-end footwear are used. Thinner leathers may be utilized for the comfort collar lining and tongue.
Factors Influencing Leather Prices
The variation in leather prices is influenced by the quality and strength of the hides used. Top-quality hides are reserved for premium styles, especially those designed to withstand harsh working environments. As the number of panels used in the construction of boots decreases, the cost tends to rise. Higher-grade leather typically offers a more natural look and feel, with increased softness and flexibility, thereby commanding a higher price. Beware of thin 1.2mm to 1.4mm leather uppers padded with synthetic EVA-type materials, which can be identified by examining the raw edges of the stitched panels. Ensuring breathability is essential for comfort.
Recognising Genuine Leather
Always look for the LEATHER LOGO, an image of an animal skin spread out flat on the ground, devoid of head, legs, belly, and tail. This logo confirms the authenticity of the safety shoes as 100% genuine leather products.
Leather Facts
- Approximately 1 billion animal skins are used annually for leather production, originating from global meat consumption.
- Leather is a natural material.
- Full Grain/Top Grain leather is of the highest quality and is more durable and longer-lasting.
- Leather is valued for its ease of cutting and shaping, strength, lightness, suppleness, and breathability, setting it apart from synthetic materials.
- The leather logo on safety footwear ensures a genuine leather product.
- Bonded Leather, Action Leather, and Pleather consist mainly of leather fibers mixed with latex to increase volume.
Remember, being informed about the different grades of leather empowers you to make the right choices when it comes to selecting your footwear. Choose wisely, and enjoy the comfort and durability of genuine leather!